the hatch 2014 'The Unicorn'
The wine that has no name, we have dubbed ‘the unicorn’. This is the newest addition to our line-up and sits atop our pantheon of wines. Originally intended to a be a ‘Black Swift’ wine, these few barrels took a different turn in evolution and in classic hatch manner, spontaneity jumped in and this wine was created. Comprised of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from Desert Valley, what struck me about this wine was how different it had become. On paper it was going to be a huge, chewy dark wine. In reality, it’s a structured and powerful wine framed by old world earthy notes and delineated acidity. As someone who has tasted thousands of international wines on top of hundreds of BC wines, this wine is the least ‘BC tasting’ red I’ve ever had, and in all honesty that’s what got me so excited about it. To me, my first impression was off the beat and path Italian. I dug in further, and eliminated Tuscany, but thought Umbria. But the acid and the intensity. After much introspection, I settled on Alto-Adige; to me this our Lagrein or Teroldego. I then smiled, and I nodded. Unfortunately nobody was near me at the time so I looked a pillock, but was chuffed all the same. With this we had a new wine, a new hatch wine at that. We had a new wine that was unlike any other BC wine on top of that, and then I smiled again.
From the first time I met Paul Morstad and discovered his art, the painting for this label has been my favourite of his work. Once I realized I had something here with this wine, it took me less than 4 seconds to know that this painting was going to be the label. The painting itself is called ‘5 Viennese Psychoanalysts’ and this most special of paintings belongs on this most special of wines.
“The unconventional folks at The Hatch had no name for this wine so it was dubbed ‘The Unicorn’ and still is. It’s the latest Hatch wine and it has assumed the flagship role for the moment. A handful of barrels of cabernet franc and merlot gleaned from Desert Valley Vineyard is the source for this dark and brooding red. What looks big and weighty is in fact super fresh and linear: where a little California and a little northern Italy meets a lot of Okanagan. The acidity tends to dry out the red cherry finish, giving it a bit of an Italian profile, but a big juicy steak will smooth it all out at this stage. Personally, I will wait five years to see where this wine goes. The label is a Paul Morstad masterpiece, and the original painting is called ‘5 Viennese Psychoanalysts.’ 90 points” – Anthony Gismondi, Gismondi on Wine. Tasted December 26, 2017